Two small ferries cross the harbours on either side of Valletta.
Both are quicker than the bus, cheaper than a taxi, and both give you the view people pay for on a cruise.
Sliema to Valletta
About 10 minutes across Marsamxett Harbour, past Manoel Island and the Valletta bastions.
By road the same trip means going round the creek and through Gzira traffic, which can take three times as long at rush hour.
Boats run every 30 minutes for most of the day, and more often at peak times.
It lands at the Marsamxett side, below St Michael’s Bastion, and the walk up is through the older part of the city.
The Three Cities to Valletta
5 minutes across the Grand Harbour from Cospicua.
You land under the bastions at the bottom of Valletta.
It is the best angle on the city there is, and it costs the price of a bus ticket.
The dgħajsa water taxis work the same crossing from Birgu for more money and a better photograph.
The climb at the other end
Both landings put you at sea level, and Valletta is on top of a hill.
From the Grand Harbour side, the Barrakka Lift takes you up to the Upper Barrakka Gardens in seconds for a small fare.
From the Sliema side there is no lift. You walk up, and it is a real climb in summer heat.
Fares and tickets
Buy at the kiosk on the quay or on board. A return costs less than two singles.
Holders of a personalised Tallinja card pay a reduced fare, and residents pay less than visitors.
The lift is free going down and charged going up, or free with a ferry ticket. Keep the ticket.
Bikes and pushchairs go on board without fuss. Cars do not, and there is no vehicle ferry across either harbour.
When they stop
Both run later in summer than in winter. The summer timetable holds until 31 October.
Both can stop in bad weather, usually a strong grigal from the northeast.
If you are crossing for dinner, check the last boat back before you sit down. The alternative is a taxi round the creek.
During Notte Bianca and other big Valletta nights the hours are extended, but the queue after midnight is long.
Worth it for the ride alone
At a couple of euro, the Grand Harbour crossing is the cheapest boat trip in Malta.
Sit outside on the way over, whichever direction you are going. Ten minutes on the water tells you more about the harbour than an afternoon on the walls.
