Malta sells its view heavily, and the view is worth something. At any seafront table, ask whether you are paying for the view or for the food. You are rarely paying equally for both.
Where the views are
The Grand Harbour
Nothing else comes close. Terraces in the Three Cities look back at Valletta’s bastions, and the Upper Barrakka side of Valletta looks down over the docks.
Best at sunset, and the Three Cities side is both quieter and better value.
A day in the harbourBook a harbour cruise
Marsaxlokk
Painted luzzu boats sit in the harbour and the tables run along the water. Touristy and still lovely, especially on a day that is not Sunday.
Sliema and Ta’ Xbiex look across Marsamxett at the Valletta skyline. The strip is long, so quality varies enormously over a few hundred metres.
The Sunday market
Gozo and the west coast
Try Xlendi, Mġarr harbour, or the cliff terraces near Dwejra. It is generally better value than the Malta equivalent for the same view.
Golden Bay and the northwest face west, which makes them the sunset tables.
Eating in Gozo
By setting
- Grand Harbour
- The best view in Malta and not a contest. Terraces in the Three Cities look back at Valletta’s bastions; Valletta’s Upper Barrakka side looks down over the docks. Best at sunset.
- Marsaxlokk
- Painted luzzu boats in the harbour, tables along the water. Touristy and still lovely, especially outside Sunday.
- Sliema and Ta’ Xbiex
- Looking across Marsamxett at Valletta’s skyline. The strip is long, so quality varies enormously over a few hundred metres.
- Gozo
- Xlendi and Mġarr harbour, and cliff terraces near Dwejra. Quieter, and generally better value than the Malta equivalent.
- Golden Bay and the northwest
- West-facing, which means these are the sunset tables.
The most efficient trade in Malta is a drink somewhere with the view and dinner three streets inland. You get the whole sunset for the price of one Cisk and eat considerably better afterwards.
A terrace that is perfect in a light southerly is unusable in a Grigal (the north-east wind). Exposed north-easterly seafronts get cleared in minutes. The restaurant will move you inside without warning. Check the wind before you book a table for the view.