Carnival runs for five days before Ash Wednesday, which means it moves with Easter and usually lands in February. Malta has held it since the time of the Knights. It is now two entirely different festivals happening at once on two islands.
Two carnivals, one week
The official carnival
Enormous mechanised floats built over months, costumed dance companies, competitions and a printed programme. It runs in the daytime, it is aimed at families and it is spectacular.
This is the one to bring children to. Valletta closes to traffic, so come in on the ferry or the bus.
Malta with kids
Nadur is different
There are no floats, no programme and no organisers. People arrive after dark in masks and improvised costumes. The tone is grotesque, satirical and deliberately unsettling.
It is a Gozitan tradition of anonymity rather than display. It is not for children.
Getting to Gozo
Come in on the ferry or the bus
Valletta closes to traffic for the parade and the approaches gridlock. The Sliema ferry drops you a short walk from it.
For Nadur, the last Gozo ferry back matters more than the carnival does. Check the timetable before you go over.
Ferry times
People book Nadur expecting the Valletta event and are startled. Valletta is a daytime parade with floats and prizes. Nadur is an after-dark tradition with no schedule and a deliberately dark sense of humour. Pick the one you want.